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[Marks DTM Calib]

First, chock the front wheels, release the handbrake and put the vehicle in neutral, jack up the rear of the car and support on both sides with axle stands....do not place these under the trailing arms as these need to be able to move for this job.

Reach up by the rear of the diff and un-clip the ABS sensor connectors from their mounts.



Remove the clip securing the flexi brake lines to the body work mounting plate (pull it down-wards or if stiff lever it with a screwdriver).



Wiggle the brake lines so they can be pushed through the mounting bracket, the brake pipes will then pass through the cut out.



Now remove the bolts securing the bottom ends of both rear shock absorbers and pop the shock bottoms out of the recess in the rear hub assembly......note....the trailing arms may well drop at this point so be careful.



Remove the bolts securing the rear anti-roll bar mounts to the trailing arms.



Place a jack under the base of the diff and then remove the four bolts which secure the rear of the sub-frame to the floor pan (two of these can be seen in the pic above of the ABS sensor connectors).

Its worth considering drawing or scribing a mark around the mountings so they can be fitted back in the same place to avoid rear alignment issues (minimal risk), reality is that you can normlay see the position in the dirt around this area....so this is optional

Slowly ease the jack down whilst watching the brake lines and wires to make sure they don't snag...the passenger side drive shaft will touch the exhaust at which point you can now pull the springs out.....

Fit new springs (in pairs!) and re-assembly is the reverse of removal....

Photo of a new spring




Points to note.....

1) Position the springs so that the upper end tail of the springs is pointing to-wards the rear of the car.

2) Clean the spring cups well and ensure there are no stones or major damage before re-fitting new ones.

3) Grease the brake lines etc whilst you are there...

4) Grease the shock absorber and anti roll bar end fittings and bolts.

5) Pre-facelift MV6 springs are the SAME as ordinary V6 ones.

6) You may need to use the jack under the base of the rear hubs in order to re-engage the shocks etc.

Torque Wrench Settings

Description	Torque
Antiroll bar to trailing arm	20Nm
Shock Absorber Lower Mounting bolt	110Nm
Diff to floor pan	90Nm

[tidla]

Thanks to Marks detailed guide, replacing the rear springs really is quite easy.

Points to add:

The springs come out quite readily without the need for spring compression tools.

Items which require removal are only those which prevent the trailing arms from swinging low enough for spring removal,

Those are as detailed, the lower shock mounts on both sides, lower anti roll bar links, brake pipe flex mounts, abs clips and the diff mount bolts x4.

Removing the rear wheels helps if don't want the vehicle on stands too high in the air.

And as mentioned, do support the diff and lower slowly on a jack as spring pressure is pressing upon it.

Took me less than an hour first time doing the job.



Lower anti roll bar bolts with ride height linkage on O/S bolt.





The four diff mount bolts.

Springs are now decompressed at this stage and just lift out.



Lower shock bolt removed and trailing arm lowered.



Original self leveling spring on the left with tapering spring diameter and extra pig tail.

After market spring for standard suspension (Lesjofors) possibly giving firmer ride.



Ride height once fitted, my settle further?

How your spring shouldn't look.