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[cruisetopoland]

I have a 2.2 petrol auto with 96k miles and wondered about the gearbox changes, this being the first automatic car I have owned (not driven!).

I note in the handbook that the 'box holds the gear longer when warming up to facilitate rapid warm up and know about the Sport and Winter modes, plus kickdown etc (have driven other autos plus many auto continental coaches).

How smooth should the changes be?  Mine are slightly more noticeable when cold (due to thick cold oil) and when warm the 'box changes at the correct time and can just be felt changing with a very, very slight silent "lurch".  There is no slack and the crawl works well, but there is some movement in the drivetrain from D to P when parking, when the body will pitch slightly.

In Sport mode the 'box holds the change to 6500rpm (I know this is done to provide safe overtaking power) but 6500rpm seems excessive and the changes are more noticeable-I find Normal is always better as it changes far too late in Sport and is actually slower.

It is surprisingly good at getting the ratio correct and does not hunt between gears even on our hilly rural roads unless you try and outsmart it with pedal pressure, but it does not change down as readily as I would expect on downhill over-run.

Overall it drives well and the box is smooth and unobtrusive, but the slight lurch on D-P, the lack of over-run downchange and the Sports mode hold to a pointless 6500rpm seems odd.

I did ask the engineer to change the gearbox oil but was told it was sealed for life and doing this would be a big job-all my tech friends recommended an oil change at this mileage.

It is under a good warranty (trusted mate is a dealer) so guess I should stop worrying and drive it until it fails?
It seems tight and works well enough, so I guess the above points are "characteristics" not "faults"?

[VXL V6]

Change the ATF! It's not a major job, you just need to drop the sumps.

You can get the gaskets and filter from Jpat and the ATF (Fuchs 4000) from Opie Oils.

[RobG]

but there is some movement in the drivetrain from D to P when parking,
If you go from D to P prior to engaging handbrake you will get the slight roll/pitch

[cruisetopoland]

Thanks guys.

I am stuck in the conundrum of whether it is worth being a prefectionist with this car or whether to accept some of its foibles.  I am used to new cars and have perfectionist tendencies.....but this is at odds with a 9 year old car nearing 100k and worth about the same as a major Audi service..!!  It drives well, but it is usually cheaper to carry out preventative maintenance than repair it when it fails and we do have a 3,000 mile winter trip coming.

Posted tonight: this; noisy top-end.
Ongoing: fuel release, heated seats, tatty keys

Not sure how far to go; change the gearbox oil, re-change the engine oil, change the seats, buy new key outers etc etc etc.....

Had it for 10 days, already done full exhaust, discs/pads, rocker gasket, major service, bodyshop bits, valet, tightened and lubricated everything, conf'd cam-belt done at 83k, etc etc-owes me £1700 so far plus my time-how far do I go on a car only worth about this?

[Ian_D]

Sounds like your gearbox is working fine to be honest.

If its in sport mode or your foot is flat to the floor, it should hold onto the gears until the rpm reaches 6500 before changing! 

[cmeonthemove]

If you want the box to change down sooner downhill, you can slip it from D to 3, 2 & 1 for engine braking. This also has the added bonus of saving fuel when decelerating.

[KillerWatt]

In Sport mode the 'box holds the change to 6500rpm (I know this is done to provide safe overtaking power) but 6500rpm seems excessive

Perfectly normal, welcome to modern technology.

and the changes are more noticeable

They will be, your thrashing the fooker.

I did ask the engineer to change the gearbox oil but was told it was sealed for life and doing this would be a big job

Sack your "engineer", because he's talking crap.

It is under a good warranty (trusted mate is a dealer) so guess I should stop worrying and drive it until it fails?

I always find "preventative" maintenance to be a much cheaper option as opposed to just driving it in to the ground.

From what you have described, your box sounds just fine......however, a fluid & filter change is not going to hurt (and is actually overdue).

[Rockhampton]

Change the ATF! It's not a major job, you just need to drop the sumps.

You can get the gaskets and filter from Jpat and the ATF (Fuchs 4000) from Opie Oils.

Service book for mine says to change the ATF every 60,000 miles or 6 years, whichever comes first...

[cruisetopoland]

Decision made.  It's going in to get it done before we go.

Local garage was helpful and can do it, so cheers for responses and advice.

Great site 

[webby23]

My gearbox performs exactly the same as this, although after a software update from markDTM the changes were noticably smoother.....

All sounds perfectly normal behaviour to me

 

[cruisetopoland]

Have now updated ECU/box software at VX dealer for £32+vat, due to change ATF and gasket tomorrow-will update this post with any differences in driving characteristics soon.

[Andy B]

Have now updated ECU/box software at VX dealer for £32+vat,  ......

You must have a very well trained dealership there. You normally get met by blank vacant faces when asked for that kind of software upgrade.      

[cruisetopoland]

Have now updated ECU/box software at VX dealer for £32+vat,  ......

You must have a very well trained dealership there. You normally get met by blank vacant faces when asked for that kind of software upgrade.      

Yeah, Ludlow Motors have been good with the Omega so far.
Will update when ATF changed-soon!

[cruisetopoland]

So now have been through the gearbox fully-new software updates by VXmain dealer, ATF changed, filter cleaned, gasket replaced by welung666 (Many thanks  )

It is now noticeably different from before, with completely diffrerent shift patterns and altered changes.

Software updates done first, then ATF so was able to isolate both factors and their influence on the 'box.

Software; now changes up at lower revs, less jerky on changes, downchanges itself on overrun downhill, generally smoother but noticably slower.  Much more difference between normal and sport modes now.  Smoother upchange on cold.

Best part is that if resuming cruise, it does not violently change down and accelerate flat-out back to set speed-it
now gently builds up speed.  MUCH BETTER and more usable.

ATF change-now more precise, quicker, quieter.  Less pitch/lurch from D-P too.

On the whole, altogether recommended to do both these things-car is more driveable and feels newer/tighter now.

On issue-when using cruise 5-up on m'way at 75mph, it downchanges to third and stays there for ages on the slightest incline-think this may be due to (club member!) fitting a used cat this weekend-may be stifling the performance compared the old knackered one.

[Andy B]

......
Best part is that if resuming cruise, it does not violently change down and accelerate flat-out back to set speed-it
now gently builds up speed.  MUCH BETTER and more usable.
 ......

Have you ever driven the Omega's predecessor? That does boot it to resume where it was!