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[Chopsdad]

The saga continues...

Breather system cleaned out, inc little semi clear tube and tiny hole in throttle body.  Emissions light still on.

But idle speed still not dropping quickly enough as if butterfly is sticking.  So today I recleaned the little hole and tube, it slid off to easily for my liking so I chopped off 5mm to get a tighter fit.  I've tightened the torx bolts on the throttle housing and given the butterfly a squirt with WD40 for good measure.  I took off the air intake and gave it short bursts with carb cleaner and put it all back together again.

Throttle much more responsive as settling back to 700 rpm (engine cold) but then I noticed I'd not connected up the MAF switch - plugged it back in and throttle now back to very slow operation again. Emissions light still on.  Tech2 reported MAF fault previously.  I've also checked all the hoses and bellows for splits and can't find anything.

So could it be the MAF afterall?  I'm off to give it a run now so take your time. Cheers

[Auto Addict]

I would clean the contacts on the MAF with contact cleaner, and also give the MAF a squirt of carb cleaner.

[rpont]

I've got a question that I've been longing to ask but always felt that I'm being a bit of a plonker in not knowing - so here goes.

WD40 seems to be used a lot as a lubricant when it's a water dispursant and I've always been told most of it evaporates and it just leaves a waxy deposit. Is it actually good as a lubricant or would a light oil spray be better?

[Auto Addict]

I use 3:1 on the throttle body butterfly.

[Marks DTM Calib]

I dont consider WD40 to be a lubricant at all.....

As for the MAF....foaming keyboard cleaner is the stuff.....don't use carb cleaner, it might damage the hot film element.

[Auto Addict]

Whoooops!

[Chopsdad]

AA - I used 3:1 on the butterfly after following your guide and had awfully high idle running at 12-1500 rpm afterwards.  This is ok now but wont drop below 1000 until speedo hits 0.  I had the WD out to help with the MAF contacts on the plug and just thought it wouldn't harm.

Mark's DTM - Carb can says its safe for MAF and to squirt into air intake - I did this with a cold engine to prevent damage to a hot element but what do you suggest I clean the foam clean off with? Owt or nowt?

The test run - car running as normal as ever but MPG drastically low at 75mph - 27 mpg on the M6 with cruise on and full of BP Ultimate. Which shouts air leak?

20 miles and 3 hours at my kids christmas party later and it now runs a very respectable 34 mpg on the way back (uphill!) so maybe I've done something right afterall.

Next job is to replace the semi clear tube - does it have a real name - throttle body escape hose or something? and see if that helps.

Final question then is - Will the emissions light clear if and when the fault is cleared or does it need reset.  I've noticed a 2.2 in local Vx and may be able to borrow the MAF for 5 mins to eliminate it altogether.

And would you believe I had to key all this twice cos I pressed the wrong button - what hope is there  for me? :-/

[TheBoy]

EML should go out once ECU is happy, though code will remain stored for a certain period of time...