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Author Topic: Instrument cluster failure - RPM + Speed frozen, coolant + fuel not reading.  (Read 3606 times)

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cam.in.head

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if you can confirm fuse 15 is ok and fuse 12. these send live up to the dash from the multi plug connector . you can then  confirm continuity to the dash connector . dont turn the ign on without the dash in place as it could set an airbag code ( unless you have the facillty to reset it )
its s pity you are too far away for me ( or you to me)
« Last Edit: 04 March 2025, 19:53:49 by cam.in.head »
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Carbine

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if you can confirm fuse 15 is ok and fuse 12. these send live up to the dash from the multi plug connector . you can then  confirm continuity to the dash connector . dont turn the ign on without the dash in place as it could set an airbag code ( unless you have the facillty to reset it )
its s pity you are too far away for me ( or you to me)


Yes, shame we are so distant. The fuses are ok.

I'll try to confirm earth and the lives next time I can. Do you know what colours the lives are?
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Doctor Gollum

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As said, fuses are ok... Power at the fuse box is something I should have checked :-[ Easily done both at the fuse box and the cluster end. :y

That said the warning lights that all appear to be working... These receive power via F15 and ground out via their respective ECUs. The gauges all receive their signals from four separate sources so for them all fail points straight at the cluster. Although the feed from F12* could be the culprit if there's an issue in that circuit.

Couldn't quite get at the coolant sender to ground it and see if the gauge moved.

*Having said that, F12 also powers the interior lights, TID, Hazards and Central locking and the TID definitely works. So power is getting to the fuse and from it into the dash.

To avoid the potential airbag light issue, a continuity check from F12 to pin 25 on the cluster plug with the ignition off would at least confirm the wire is continuous and a resistance check would confirm it is intact and independent (ie not touching anything it shouldn't).

To save hunting and for reference, it is the only RED wire to the cluster plug. Likewise the ground is the only BROWN wire although, with regards to the ground, the dash lights ALL use the same ground, so any issue here is within the cluster circuitry.

My money is on the cluster, especially as everything else is working.
« Last Edit: 05 March 2025, 00:25:19 by Doctor Gollum »
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cam.in.head

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that would make sense .
did you examine the cluster pcb ?   the bad connections are usually visible as a blackening / swelling around some of the "eyelets" linking the two sided board.
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Doctor Gollum

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No, although the cluster is under a lifetime warranty from the firm that 'repaired'. I did tweak the contact flaps and clean them and the plug to no avail.
No immediate signs of arcing on the rear foil.
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cam.in.head

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not the rear foil ?
ifs the pcb inside the instruments but if theres a "warranty" then thats the way to go . (what they actually repaired if anything is anybodys guess ?)
my offer to sort the pcb still stands if not !
and as mentioned "trying " a different cluster ,even from a different engine size (whatever you can get easiest) will prove that its in your original cluster ! to eliminate the car / wiring !
« Last Edit: 05 March 2025, 12:01:00 by cam.in.head »
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Doctor Gollum

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Indeed as it's a plug and play test. :y
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biggriffin

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PM's replied too :y
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Carbine

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Thanks all.

I'm hesitant to open up the clocks again as there is a 'Void if removed' sticker now as I have a warranty.

I've made an offer on an instrument panel, so I'm waiting to hear back from that. If my gauges are still faulty I'll send them back to the company for further repair.
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If you need any further assistance with it, just shout :y
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cam.in.head

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any update on this ?
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Carbine

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Yep!

Today I received a donor instrument cluster in the post. - it works fine in the car, which obviously means the problem lies in the original cluster!

I've got back in contact with the repair company, who are recollecting the cluster to do a better job repairing it this time. Hopefully comes back fully working.

My warranty would be void if I opened it up, so my apologies I can't tell anyone exactly what caused it!
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I was 99.9% certain that would fix it, and it's pretty conclusive for the place that "repaired" it that they clearly didn't.

At least you'll be able to get some use out of the car in the meantime now that Bank Holiday season is upon us. :y
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cam.in.head

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any progress ?
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