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[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Leaking like a bastard. Obviously been repaired many times before .....but not by me.

What exactly am I looking at here?

What is the function of the blue box?

[STEMO]

Looks like an ancient three way valve. Hot water only, central heating only, or both.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Looks like an ancient three way valve. Hot water only, central heating only, or both.

Yep..... I've found quite a few videos on you tube. Looks like the 3 way valve comes complete the 'box unit' and wiring that then has to be connected to a wiring box.

I mean, how hard can it be to change?

[STEMO]

Looks like an ancient three way valve. Hot water only, central heating only, or both.

Yep..... I've found quite a few videos on you tube. Looks like the 3 way valve comes complete the 'box unit' and wiring that then has to be connected to a wiring box.

I mean, how hard can it be to change?

Let us know when you've done it 

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Looks like an ancient three way valve. Hot water only, central heating only, or both.

Yep..... I've found quite a few videos on you tube. Looks like the 3 way valve comes complete the 'box unit' and wiring that then has to be connected to a wiring box.

I mean, how hard can it be to change?

Let us know when you've done it 

Looks like the 3 way valve complete with box and wiring cost around £70-£80 from Screwfix. So not too bad.

[TheBoy]

Avoid the Danfoss ones, else you'll be doing it again in 2-3 years.

Easy enough job, but you need a partial or full drain down - use it as a good excuse to put cleaner in it before draining, and getting the right amount of inhibitor in after you're done.

[LC0112G]

It's commonly called a diverter valve, but it does what Stemo describes.

The large blue/black plastic electrical bit usually unclips and pulls off the mechanical (copper/brass) valve, allowing you to operate the valve manually.

However, if it's leaking water, then it's the copper/brass bit that needs changing. It's not obvious from the photo - if your valve has been inserted properly using screw compression fittings, then it may be a job you can tackle yourself. However, it does look like someone has been in there with solder and a blow torch. If any of the fittings have been soldered up then you'll probably need to get someone in that knows what they're doing to replace it.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Would this do the trick? I am assuming that my pipes are 22mm.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-27101sx-3-port-motorised-valve-22mm-compression/81844?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yes although I would be advising getting a Honeywell one if you can as they seem to be the only reliable ones around these days

[Viral_Jim]

Also, with the Honeywell ones, you can very easily swap the motorised head (the part that most commonly fails) while leaving the rest in place, avoiding the need for a drain down.

This may also be possible with Drayton, but I have no experience with them. 

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Also, with the Honeywell ones, you can very easily swap the motorised head (the part that most commonly fails) while leaving the rest in place, avoiding the need for a drain down.

This may also be possible with Drayton, but I have no experience with them.

There seems to be no way quick release way I can remove the blue plastic box. No release mechanism.

Although it is more than 20 years old so probably 'not a thing' back then.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Also, with the Honeywell ones, you can very easily swap the motorised head (the part that most commonly fails) while leaving the rest in place, avoiding the need for a drain down.

This may also be possible with Drayton, but I have no experience with them.

yep....can be removed to aid 'spannering'

[TheBoy]

Yes although I would be advising getting a Honeywell one if you can as they seem to be the only reliable ones around these days

Yup, since using Honeywell, I haven't been replacing mine every 3-5 years

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

I suppose I'll need to invest in some sort of olive cutter. I doubt the old olives will yield easily......unless somebody knows of a surefire method of removing them.

[YZ250]

I suppose I'll need to invest in some sort of olive cutter. I doubt the old olives will yield easily......unless somebody knows of a surefire method of removing them.

I have both an Olive Cutter and an Olive Puller but for many years I just cut a diagonal cut in the Olive with a junior hacksaw. Don’t go too deep though, you just need to go deep enough to get a flat blade screwdriver in the slot and then twist the screwdriver to split the Olive. Clean up the pipe with a bit of wire wool and it’s job done. 

Just for reference, the old blue 3 way valve controller were generally produced by Switchmaster, and they were sold as a one piece item, so the electric part was a non-replaceable part.
I use the Honeywell 3 way port valve whenever I change one.