Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Doctor Gollum]

An extension cooler/remote can be fitted, you need to remove the connections/pipes that are on the oil filter housing, and get the correct pipe work made up, and fit a new cooler in front of the rads, you will need to leave the old cooler in situ,as this keeps the water flow at a flow.

To clean out the sludge, drain system refill with 1L of liquid dish washer soap run for few miles, flush out and repeat a couple of times.

21 times to be precise 

[cam.in.head]

pm sent

[Ricky043]

I'm going the bypass route.

BTW, someone in the ABS said they are working on a solution for the Omega oil cooler but its not available yet. No suggestion when it may be.

[Ricky043]

Got the two cooler pipes out on Friday where they attach to the block.
On measuring the O/D of the male connection that screws into the block, it came out as 17.90 mm on my metric micrometer, which was nothing like any of the  BSP, NPT sizes which I was expecting. My mechanic suggested I take the connections to Pirtek in Basildon, to see if they could make up a short bypass pipe to screw into the block mountings. They identified the thread as a metric one (M18 x 1.5) and once they'd done that they made up a flexi hose to connect the two unions together. I was concerned that a bit a rubber hose bent 180 degrees might be susceptible to collapsing internally, but they supplied a hose rated to 20 bar, which feels really solid. Also the total height of the by pass is 130mm,, well within the 190mm clearance from the block face where the bypass mounts, to an adjacent bit of chassis leg.
A very elegant solution and for less than £30.
The two guys in the shop were great and said they are often being asked to make up oil and power steering pipes/hoses for old (and not so old) cars which the car makers no longer support. So well worth a visit. Obviously take your old pipes with you. Pirtek have branches all round the country (and the world) and I'm not getting paid commission!!!   

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Good result. 

[Stu.C]

That's a cracking result   


Failing to visualise the arrangement of the oil cooler in my head whilst sat in the office - would that simply be a male M18 x 1.5 at each end of the flexi?

[STEMO]

Be interesting to see how it copes across all temperatures and running conditions. Sitting in traffic could be interesting.

[Ricky043]

In response to Stu.C, there is no oil cooler.

THe bypass pipe made up by Pirtek consists of an M18 x1.5 coupler (threaded at each end) in each of the connections to the block by the oil filter housing. THese are then connected to a flexible hose via 2 crimped connections with nuts that attach to the other end of the coupler. THis will maintain the flow of oil out of the block and back again without going to the (absent) oil cooler.

I'm not concerned about the overheating of the oil in the engine as I don't tow and tend to do journeys of no more than 40  miles at a time. Only time will tell if this set up works without overheating, though it should be okay during the winter, and I wanted to get the car back on the road asap without having to fit an external oil cooler with the associated piping etc.

Posting a pic here is too much of a faff, but if you want to see a picture of the hose (not yet fitted) send me a PM with your email address and I'll email you the pic.

[Ricky043]

After we did the oil cooler bypass put it thru the MOT last week and it passed with just one advisory for one rear tyre, which I'm planning to replace anyway.

However, on the journey back from the MOT station we could smell burning oil. Nothing coming out of the exhaust (smoke or oil) and no obvious leak from the new bypass hose, so I'm hoping it was some of the oil from the header tank (which spilled over the engine when we removed it for cleaning) that has found its way onto the exhaust manifold and is burning off as the exhaust gets hot. No loss of oil from the sump as it's still full on the dipstick so hoping the smell will go in a couple of weeks.

Got a bit of a shock when I checked the mileage between MOTs in the last year. Less than 400 miles (not a typo) for about £2500 in repairs. At least I'm not spending much on petrol!

Have to see if it goes longer than 4 weeks now without another issue, otherwise the old girl may be on the way out. I can justifiably spend more money on my old Rover P5B to get that back on the road as it will have a value in excess of £10K when its finished whereas, with the omega, I seem to be just tipping money down the toilet!

[Doctor Gollum]

What header tank

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Aka coolant reservoir I would presume, which was probably swimming in oil from the failed oil cooler.

[Doctor Gollum]

Aka coolant reservoir I would presume, which was probably swimming in oil from the failed oil cooler.

Surely that was removed and cleaned Not doing so would be pretty half arsed.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Overflowed, or spilt some over the engine bay while removing it maybe ?

[cam.in.head]

that's what he said earlier and sounds likely for the oil smell (hopefully)
we all know that smell but usually subsides after a while unless it's a current leak.

[Ricky043]

Been driving it a bit now and the burning oil smell has gone and no sign of oil loss either. It is noticeable that the engine takes longer to warm up without the oil cooler and so far only seems to get to about 92 degrees on the gauge, whereas it used to run at 95 degrees and would warm up quickly.

However, it has been cold recently.