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[Ricky043]

Yes we removed the oil cooler completely. Had we left it in situ but disconnected from the oil supply, there was the obvious risk of water getting into the oil cooler via the leak and then out of the two large pipes that that took oil to and from the cooler, so we would have had to block those too. As the thread on one of the connections was stripped, making a water tight connection would have been problematic, so why bother for a non functioning oil cooler?

We removed the cooler completely and sealed up the two large holes in the top plate with a heath robinson concoction  of penny washers over the holes on each side with a 12 or 14  mm nut and bolt to hold them in place, with plenty of mastic both sides and between the washers, to hopefully stop leaks from the valley where the cooler used to sit. THe top cover was also sealed before its bolts were tightened.

No signs of water leaks or water loss so far, so appears to be working. With the cooler removed then the water will flow unrestricted into the valley and out again, so this faster flow of coolant may contribute to the slower warm up. But I'd rather it run cooler than hotter, and the weather has been cold, so that might be responsible. I'll know as the weather warms up.

[YZ250]

Hopefully all good for a while then. 

[Lou1]

the ''oil cooler'' is actually a heat exchanger ie it works both ways round & helps to heat the coolant after starting from cold.

  Hi Andy, with regards mine also broke and spilled oil into the coolant reservoir. And like you I also sought a replacement without success. I then bought an air cooled one off of ebay,this failed spectacularly spilling oil all over the road. I recommend sourcing a 25 row AN10 from Speeding costing £64.53. If wish to connect directly to the input/output of the cooler,You will need AN10/BSP coupler for connection to where current output/input pipes go  to the oil cooler.