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[ABCDEFG]

Hello everyone. My question is, is it worth purchasing an Omega in 2024? I am young and have been driving for only a few years so the 2.2L engine version will be the only viable one in terms of insurance wise, combined with the high cost of road tax and inevitable repairs, is it viable to take one on in my case?. Despite this I have always loved Omegas and I am desperate to drive and own one, so I don't mind spending money and a bit of my time on one, however this does have to be within reason, and I would ideally like the car to be working more then it doesn't. I am aware that buying the right car in the first place is most of the battle, but I have limited mechanical knowledge and not really a large amount of money to spend on an Omega once I own it. I would like to state again that I would be willing to put in effort and time and a bit of money, but with their age is it worth it anymore to keep them running for a decent amount of time? Thank you for any help.

[TheBoy]

They are cheap enough to buy, and you will struggle to find anything more comfortable if almost any (sensible) money.

Any you buy will likely have rust issues.  That will need fixing, and if you can't weld yourself, might mean its a non starter.

Front suspension on Omegas does wear quickly, and the car is sensitive to geometry setup.  So you will be fitting polybushes to the from arms, and potentially looking at replacing the shocks.  Again, if you are having to pay somebody else, it can get very expensive very quickly.  After any suspension work, you need to do a full geometry check, to reset the camber and everything else - this usually costs about £35 plus £35 per adjustment (but worth every penny on an Omega.

Its likely the front brake discs will be shot - they massively corrode the outer bit of the inside face of the discs, like many other Vauxhalls (and others), but thats a trivial and inexpensive job to DIY.

Fuel economy isn't the best - these are old cars now. And most will get hit with the ULEZ charges if you live near places implementing that tosh.


But if you are prepared to do the work required, and its not a rust bucket underneath (rear of sill, along the sills, the front legs near the front wheel) and presentable on top (rear wheel arch rust, tailgate rust on estates), they are generally easy-ish to maintain, and there is a wealth of knowlege on here.

[Doctor Gollum]

To rebuild the suspension properly, you're looking at a grand. Chances are, it will need doing.
Cambelt and water pump are every 40k Again, presume it needs both.
Regular oil changes are essential.
Camcover gasket will probably be due along with a thorough breather clean.

If you're not mechanically minded, start learning as a lot of garages seemed to struggle with the Omega when they were new, let alone 21+ years later.

Once sorted, they're a very rewarding car and worth the effort if it's what you want to drive

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

If you find one with a longish MOT and you can do required work yourself, buy and do the work thats needed as time and funds allow.
It doesnt have to be done all in one go.
Get insurance quotes for bigger engined cars before committing to the 2.2. The difference might not be as much as you think, and the V6 engined cars are by far the better ones to drive.
If you see any you like the look of for sale, post links on here so we can give advice on them.
If you dont do your own work, buy one with a decent length of MOT and drive it until it becomes uneconomical to throw money at it.

[Lizzie Zoom]

A good example of an Omega is a great car still.  But, as others have intermated , finding one without terminal rust is the real issue.

As someone who at 17 in 1970 bought a £30 Austin A40 that had an MOT, but was an absolute rust bucket, but had no mechanical knowledge, I know what you are facing as a youngster.  However, with a lovely uncle, who was retiring as the Chief Mechanic for the London section of the GPO with their green Austin vans, i quickly learnt how to keep my rust bucket going mechanically - removing the head, replacing valves and tappets, with a clutch replacement - along with going to night school for car mechanic lessons, I kept it on the road until I had a brand new Company Ford Escort two years later.

Times have changed - my God they’ve changed in terms of the MOT and the cars were built then - and as a youngster the costs have gone through the roof.  For instance even as a female very young driver, the insurance cost me just £30 per year. Petrol was also around just 6 shillings per GALLON 
But, if I was to be a youngster again I would still buy a cheap, but relatively sound car car, to run for a year or three,  whilst also learning car mechanics, then after go for a newer model for a longer period IF you can afford it. Also with driving history building your insurance should gradually reduce.

But after all said and done, as much as I love Omega’s as a mature lady , I would NOT recommend one for anyone under 25, especially if they have no mechanical experience.  Instead go for a great modern hatchback, with a 1 to 1.5 litre engine.  MUCH cheaper to run, and should not give you the worry and headaches of running a 21+ year old Omega, with even a smaller 2.2 litre engine.  I would stick to your Corsa or similar.  (My two lads had them before getting bigger cars later)

In addition, if you choose that car wisely, when you come to buy another more modern car, you should be able to trade it in .  No sensible dealer will now give any trade in value above what it is worth in scrap :'( :'(

Sorry if I have broken a dream to own an Omega, but you must be realistic in not taking on an “old persons” car!!!

All the best in your decision making

[Doctor Gollum]

My first car was a MK2 Granada.

Point being if you want a particular car, then get it.

[ABCDEFG]

A good example of an Omega is a great car still.  But, as others have intermated , finding one without terminal rust is the real issue.

As someone who at 17 in 1970 bought a £30 Austin A40 that had an MOT, but was an absolute rust bucket, but had no mechanical knowledge, I know what you are facing as a youngster.  However, with a lovely uncle, who was retiring as the Chief Mechanic for the London section of the GPO with their green Austin vans, i quickly learnt how to keep my rust bucket going mechanically - removing the head, replacing valves and tappets, with a clutch replacement - along with going to night school for car mechanic lessons, I kept it on the road until I had a brand new Company Ford Escort two years later.

Times have changed - my God they’ve changed in terms of the MOT and the cars were built then - and as a youngster the costs have gone through the roof.  For instance even as a female very young driver, the insurance cost me just £30 per year. Petrol was also around just 6 shillings per GALLON 
But, if I was to be a youngster again I would still buy a cheap, but relatively sound car car, to run for a year or three,  whilst also learning car mechanics, then after go for a newer model for a longer period IF you can afford it. Also with driving history building your insurance should gradually reduce.

But after all said and done, as much as I love Omega’s as a mature lady , I would NOT recommend one for anyone under 25, especially if they have no mechanical experience.  Instead go for a great modern hatchback, with a 1 to 1.5 litre engine.  MUCH cheaper to run, and should not give you the worry and headaches of running a 21+ year old Omega, with even a smaller 2.2 litre engine.  I would stick to your Corsa or similar.  (My two lads had them before getting bigger cars later)

In addition, if you choose that car wisely, when you come to buy another more modern car, you should be able to trade it in .  No sensible dealer will now give any trade in value above what it is worth in scrap :'( :'(

Sorry if I have broken a dream to own an Omega, but you must be realistic in not taking on an “old persons” car!!!

All the best in your decision making



Thank you for your response. If I were to purchase an Omega it would not be for daily use, I am lucky to not be required to drive for work. This gives me space to work on the Omega and take my time to learn and make repairs, which I must admit I am looking forward to doing. I have undertaken some light work on my current car (Corsa Mk D), and I did thoroughly enjoy that, so an Omega would be a step up and would allow me to really get stuck in and learn more. You do bring up good points about about running costs, but unless I absolutely can't avoid it, I don't plan to take it to any garages, but I do have friend/ family connections which would make doing so cheaper. Thank you for your reply and I have taken your suggestions on board.

[ABCDEFG]

They are cheap enough to buy, and you will struggle to find anything more comfortable if almost any (sensible) money.

Any you buy will likely have rust issues.  That will need fixing, and if you can't weld yourself, might mean its a non starter.

Front suspension on Omegas does wear quickly, and the car is sensitive to geometry setup.  So you will be fitting polybushes to the from arms, and potentially looking at replacing the shocks.  Again, if you are having to pay somebody else, it can get very expensive very quickly.  After any suspension work, you need to do a full geometry check, to reset the camber and everything else - this usually costs about £35 plus £35 per adjustment (but worth every penny on an Omega.

Its likely the front brake discs will be shot - they massively corrode the outer bit of the inside face of the discs, like many other Vauxhalls (and others), but thats a trivial and inexpensive job to DIY.

Fuel economy isn't the best - these are old cars now. And most will get hit with the ULEZ charges if you live near places implementing that tosh.


But if you are prepared to do the work required, and its not a rust bucket underneath (rear of sill, along the sills, the front legs near the front wheel) and presentable on top (rear wheel arch rust, tailgate rust on estates), they are generally easy-ish to maintain, and there is a wealth of knowlege on here.

Thank you for your response. I am happy to attempt any repair or work on the car just short of an entire engine swap, I will likely make mistakes but that is apart of learning and these are hardly 2024 plate cars straight off the factory floor, and as you mentioned there are huge resources on here and on the internet regarding these issues. I will definitely try to avoid the thoroughly rotted sheds, as repairing heavy rust will likely not be in my skillset for the foreseeable future. Thank you for your help.

[mong00sehun]

Hi,
i bought my 2002/12 2.6 V6 Omega Elegance in 2023 january. The car had real 151.000KM, it was a good deal i think. Ever since i had some issues with the car like, crankshaft sensor, heating radiator, brakes, spring, ignition coil and spark plugs etc. You will need to look out for the rust, maybe this is the most important thing. And maybe consult with some mechanic who will help you with the repairs  . I really love this this car, anytime when i sit in another vehicle, and then i sit back in my car i always appreciate it.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Just driven a few miles on some nice roads by myself in mine and I do love that old car. I doubt I will ever get rid of it.
Cant keep running three cars though, so the Boxster will go next spring.

[Lizzie Zoom]

A good example of an Omega is a great car still.  But, as others have intermated , finding one without terminal rust is the real issue.

As someone who at 17 in 1970 bought a £30 Austin A40 that had an MOT, but was an absolute rust bucket, but had no mechanical knowledge, I know what you are facing as a youngster.  However, with a lovely uncle, who was retiring as the Chief Mechanic for the London section of the GPO with their green Austin vans, i quickly learnt how to keep my rust bucket going mechanically - removing the head, replacing valves and tappets, with a clutch replacement - along with going to night school for car mechanic lessons, I kept it on the road until I had a brand new Company Ford Escort two years later.

Times have changed - my God they’ve changed in terms of the MOT and the cars were built then - and as a youngster the costs have gone through the roof.  For instance even as a female very young driver, the insurance cost me just £30 per year. Petrol was also around just 6 shillings per GALLON 
But, if I was to be a youngster again I would still buy a cheap, but relatively sound car car, to run for a year or three,  whilst also learning car mechanics, then after go for a newer model for a longer period IF you can afford it. Also with driving history building your insurance should gradually reduce.

But after all said and done, as much as I love Omega’s as a mature lady , I would NOT recommend one for anyone under 25, especially if they have no mechanical experience.  Instead go for a great modern hatchback, with a 1 to 1.5 litre engine.  MUCH cheaper to run, and should not give you the worry and headaches of running a 21+ year old Omega, with even a smaller 2.2 litre engine.  I would stick to your Corsa or similar.  (My two lads had them before getting bigger cars later)

In addition, if you choose that car wisely, when you come to buy another more modern car, you should be able to trade it in .  No sensible dealer will now give any trade in value above what it is worth in scrap :'( :'(

Sorry if I have broken a dream to own an Omega, but you must be realistic in not taking on an “old persons” car!!!

All the best in your decision making



Thank you for your response. If I were to purchase an Omega it would not be for daily use, I am lucky to not be required to drive for work. This gives me space to work on the Omega and take my time to learn and make repairs, which I must admit I am looking forward to doing. I have undertaken some light work on my current car (Corsa Mk D), and I did thoroughly enjoy that, so an Omega would be a step up and would allow me to really get stuck in and learn more. You do bring up good points about about running costs, but unless I absolutely can't avoid it, I don't plan to take it to any garages, but I do have friend/ family connections which would make doing so cheaper. Thank you for your reply and I have taken your suggestions on board.

In that case, go for it

You obviously know the challenges, or at least know what they could be, so you are prepared and committed.  All the best with what you decide, and there are many on this forum who can give great advice, if not more

[TheBoy]

By modern car standards, the Omega is easy to work on, so if you find a rust free one, it could be a nice car to learn some skills on.

Be aware, though, left sat around not used much, they do deteriorate fast.  When I had 3 of the bloody things, I had to make the effort to shuffle them around on my (single car width) driveway so they all go some use weekly.