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[JamesV6CDX]

In the summer of 2023 I saw an advert pop up fairly locally for KN03 XPG - a retail spec 3.2 Omega Elite, with the cream / beige leather and around 130k on the clock, for just under £500. The information was that it had broken down, due to the aux belt tensioner melting. The seller had it recovered, and had a new tensioner unit fitted, but it still wouldn't run. He wanted to throw in the towel and flog it.

It was 30 miles from me. I couldn't resist it, and definitely didn't want to see a decent 3.2 crushed or broken up, so I took a punt. I was hoping to get lucky, but my suspicion was that the aux belt derailing had somehow got into the cambelt setup - and I turned out to be right.

Anyhow, here she is, just after delivery.



It's sister on the right, is my 2.6 CDX.

Not wanting to attempt to start it (for risk of more damage) I gently turned the crank by hand, and soon met resistance, which confirmed my fears. I removed the gubbins to get to the cambelt, and yes, belt shreds everywhere, and it was visibly well out of time:



I decided no more investigation was needed, other than a bit of open-heart surgery to see if the lump was salvagable. So, I began the strip-down. Belt kit off, inlet manifold off, cam covers off, blah blah.

Obviously also had to remove both cats, and yet again, the grippy Irwin sockets saved the day on those old bolts.

My favourite way to remove the cam followers - using the suction cup on a valve grinding stick:



The cam followers, kept in their original orders, soon to be covered in oil for preservation:



Now ready for the heads to be unbolted, and pulled off:



I removed the 1-3-5 head first. You can see below, there are kiss-marks on all three pistons, where the valves made contact:



Now we just have the 2-4-6 head to remove:



And.... both off:



There are also similar kiss marks on the piston tops of pots 2-4-6:



You can see by now, we have quite a collection of parts on the front lawn - note the camshafts have been oiled and wrapped in cling film to prevent moisture ingress and therefore rust:



So what do the valves look like? Yep, as bent as a 9 bob note.....

[JamesV6CDX]

I decided to junk the heads - the valve guides were broken.

So, I used the heads from an old 2.6 which I knew had cooked on the motorway. (Controversial I know)

I know 2.6 heads on a 3.2 raise compression quite a bit. I also know that the 2.6 heads were warped, and would need skimming - and, that skimming heads on the 54deg V6 is not a good idea due to alignment issues with the inlet divider and coolant bridge. But, it was that or nothing. I knew they also had leaky stem seals, but that's an easy fix. As I clearly don't have a lathe and can't skim myself, I decided to take the 2.6 heads to an engineering shop for a chat.

The bloke was exceptionally enthusiastic about my project, and offered to remove the valves and stem seals, skim and professionally clean both heads, and do a full valve job. He quoted me £120 per head.

In times gone by I would have just paid for the skim, and done the valves and cleaning myself, but motivation was still lacking, especially to grind 24 of those buggers in, with the messy paste and fiddly colletts.

So I got him to crack on - and this was the end result:






Inspired by how good these looked, I started ordering more parts, and just doing an hour here and there to get it back together.

One afternoon I cleaned the block, and here are the two head gaskets ready for fitting:



It's noteworthy they say X30XE but are multi layer steel. The 3.0 only ever used a composite gasket to my knowledge. Anyway, I knew they would be fine.

What excited me more, was that I managed to get some Genuine GM multi layer steel manifold gaskets. The ones that came in the head-set were composite, and they are absolute crap / don't last (They went in the bin, the only place for them)



After fitting the manifolds and heat sheilds etc, It was time to start getting the heads on the car. I noticed at this point that (due to my procrastination) the bores looked quite rusty inside. I used some fine wet and dry and some oil to clean them up. I know it's not the best way but it's all I really had available, and although I was working to a high standard, I was still in a "it's got two chances" kind of mood. It didn't look too bad once done, and was smooth to touch / with a fingernail.



So, on with the heads. The Haynes book of lies always states to refit the 1-3-5 head first (to allow better access to refit the rigid coolant pipe that runs alongside it) - but I tend to fit the 2-4-6 head first. I don't know why, I just have.

Here we are with the 2-4-6 head fitted:



And, both heads:



Now with the camshafts in, with new cam seals. I used the original 3.2 cams for the correct lift, but used the 2.6 bearing caps, because they were lined bored to those heads. Additionally they have to be fitted in the same places (and rotations) as per their markings.

Here we are with cams fitted (and everything carefully oiled during installation)



From here, I just started doing the odd hour or two here and there, bolting bits on. It very soon took shape:



Frighteningly close now, just needs inlet / plenum and a few odds and sods connecting:



And (if this works) here she is purring away quietly:


https://imgur.com/a/wKF7A0D   < click

[JamesV6CDX]

Notes -

1) Extensive restoration done just before my ownership - sills etc replaced.

2) She passed her MOT first time after the work on 25 April with only very minor advisories

3) I had to fit the cats from the 2.6, because I weighed in the 3.2 ones 

4) Genuine GM cam cover gaskets were used but I had to use pattern O rings for the bolt holes

5) I couldn't get the O ring from VX for the rigid, rear-to-front coolant transfer pipe. I reused the old one with grey goo.

6) I fitted the stat and link pipe from the 2.6 as they were almost new. Again, I re-used those seals with grey goo.

7) I re-used the old water pump, and refitted an old (not the existing) cambelt kit from a V6 I'd recently worked on. Yes I know that sounds crazy but with my confidence levels low, I didn't want to fork out for a new kit if it ultimately didn't work. Now it runs and has passed the MOT, I'll pop a belt kit and pump on there before it's used again.

8 ) When I do that, I need to helicoil one of the cambelt backplate holes. Unbeknown to me, the thread was damaged (I had never refitted it, only removed it) so didn't know until it came to fitment. Thankfully access is good and this shouldn't be an issue. It's currently held with two, loctited bolts just for the purposes of testing and MOT etc.

9) I've actually now done about 900 miles in it. No loss of fluids and no issues whatsoever.

10) I haven't lost it. I remembered all of the torques, identified all of the bolts, knew the fitment of all of the vacc pipes and electrical connectors off by heart still.

11) There were no problems lining up the bridge or divider. They fitted fine.

12) Compression is high.... currently running on 99 ron super unleaded only.

13) It goes like it's been stung.... easily the fastest Omega I've ever driven (not that I like to drive flat out, I prefer to nurture it!)

14) I'm starting to fall back in love with driving again now I have this. I grin every time I drive it, hear that V6 burble (with the stainless exhaust) and crank up that unrivalled bose!!!

15) There are a few more jobs to do. There's a pull to the right under braking. Some cosmetic small rust areas to get treated. And some plonker (me) scuffed the front bumper.

16) Also need to fit the proper bootlid with the Irmcsher spoiler etc. But it needs a respray first as there's a big rust patch where the Griffin goes.

17) It's debadged, and has already embarrassed some much newer, sporty looking cars!

18) I needn't have worried about the bores. It's not using a drop of oil (which I am frequently changing due to the work done).

[dave the builder]

Excellent work 
another one saved 
did you have spare heads to replace the u/s valves  or buy new valves 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

The kind of thread that I love to see. Inspires me to get off my arse. 
I still think that even in 2024, theres not many cars that can beat a decent Omega for overall driving experience - comfort / real world performance / balance of ride / handling (within expected limits for the type of car).

[JamesV6CDX]

Excellent work 
another one saved 
did you have spare heads to replace the u/s valves  or buy new valves 

Thanks

I completely junked the heads from the 3.2 after robbing the manifolds. Junked them with the valves still in.

The heads (and valves) I fitted were from a 2.6

[VXL V6]

Nice job. Getting rare to see this much effort being afforded on an Omega nowadays. I'm just trying to keep my two (may sell one) in good roadworthy condition because, despite having a 530D as a daily and a V70 dog wagon, there's just something about an Omega as mentioned in an earlier reply.

[countrywoman]

Much the same as I had to do to my 3.0 , top cam belt guide roller had collapsed so new inlets, 2 guides and a good clean up.
Nice job.

[Sir Tigger KC]

Nice!   

[Varche]

Great job. Oh to be 30 years younger.

 

[STEMO]

Great job. Oh to be 30 years younger.

 

And the rest 

[Jimbob]

nice inspiring write up, good work!

[Marks DTM Calib]

Just be aware, to get the 2.6/2.5 heads to the same standard as the 3.2, you need to port them as the inlet throats are smaller and that does impact the power quite a bit 

[Jim82]

Great work, always good to see a project with a happy ending