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[robson]

My passenger door  central locking gave up a few weeks ago.Now suddenly it is working ok any ideas I should be so lucky

[Doctor Gollum]

Temperature/humidity related perhaps, but to answer your question, no.

[johnnydog]

Most likely will be the central locking motor starting to give up the ghost. Whenever any of mine have started playing up, the fault starts with the affected door intermittantly not locking or unlocking with the others, or being sluggish. It may be back working at the moment, but the likelihood is that it will play up  again, and then pack up altogether.

[Terbs]

My drivers door locking motor has given up the ghost too. It started playing up if it was damp or wet atmosphere, then cleared when fine. So now it needs replacing.

[TheBoy]

My passenger door  central locking gave up a few weeks ago.Now suddenly it is working ok any ideas I should be so lucky

Fear not, it will play up again soon, until you fix it.  They usually start out intermittent, then eventually get to the point they properly screw your over, esp if its the driver's door one.

I'd refrain from dead-locking it, and also ensuring that the key works smoothly in the lock.

[Doctor Gollum]

A central locking motor delete and retro fit a mechanical passenger door lock could future proof it...

[robson]

I have in the past tried to find out what the rules are, as far as a mot, if one doorlock  is not working with the remote.

[dave the builder]

I have in the past tried to find out what the rules are, as far as a mot, if one doorlock  is not working with the remote.

As long as the doors open with the door handles (inside and out) and close securely  it's a pass 
Fuel door flap must open to inspect that the fuel cap is in place
boot and bonnet need to close securely

remote /central locking by fob or key turn in door is NOT an MOT requirement

[Doctor Gollum]

I have in the past tried to find out what the rules are, as far as a mot, if one doorlock  is not working with the remote.

Irrelevant as long as the door handle works inside and out. Removing the CL motors simply stops the remote control from operating the locks. As long as the key works in the driver's door, and ideally the passenger door (pre facelift had a lock cylinder on both sides. Retrofitting this to a facelift should be easy enough.

On a facelift saloon you may want to keep the remote access to be able to pop the boot from outside the car (irrelevant on pre facelift and estate as long as the key operates the mechanical lock), but this should still work even if the front door motors are removed. Easy enough to test.

Whilst experimenting, leave at least one window open just in case.

[johnnydog]

I have in the past tried to find out what the rules are, as far as a mot, if one doorlock  is not working with the remote.

I've never known ANY tester locking or unlocking any car I've ever presented for a test, either by the fob, key or in the case of a 'non central locking' car, the key / door locking buttons.....