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[RallyArde]

Did you weld the inner and outer together, or use panel bond? From the factory, they're glued together...

Yeah, I did notice they are glued, but I thought in this case its wiser to just spot weld them together, eventhoug thatīs not full OEM solution

[Doctor Gollum]

Did you weld the whole arch or just the repair?

[RallyArde]

Did you weld the whole arch or just the repair?

Well.. there is no "lip" at original section of the inner arch, so maybe thatīs your answer


Back in to business, Iīve started the rear axle rebuilt:





I dropped the whole beam down as one package, but in these pictures Iīve already released the subframe for cleaning up.



All the dirt and rust removed.



Spred some alcydic paint to subframe and to those supporting plates. I canīt wait to see inspectors face at the MoT


Then it would time to start assemble things back togehter... but I need clean some rust from the underside of the cars chassis as well, looks like only surface rust

[RallyArde]

Some progress again...

https://youtu.be/wXalty3j11w

I also added part codes for original bushes at the end of the vid


Iīve already ordered new gear selector seal for the automatic gearbox, so Iīll be sorting that out soon, at least trying to

[RallyArde]

The project nearly stopped, well for three weeks at least:

https://youtu.be/MN4tH5s5NNU

There are actually few minor things still before MoT left to be done. Exhaust flanges both right and left are sligthly leaking after I installed it back, so possibly they just arentīt sitting correctly. Also I need to change those 17" OEM wheels to the car. So were are not far off...

[dave the builder]

Well done 
Good luck with your test 

[RallyArde]

Thanks!

Car got an MoT pass at Monday

Few pics of what happened during the last few weeks:





The whole rear beam rebuilt and fitted back to the chassis.



Frontend done as well.





Managed to replace selector shaft seal, eventually, and both sump gaskets.





Leaky radiator replaced by brand new one.





Quick wash to get all the dust off from it 



Proper rims finally



After I got that MoT pass, I checked gearbox oil level and added 0.3 litres of ATF, so it should be good for now. Next monday will get this car to allignment. Just canīt wait to see the improvement of handling after that and how that LSD works at actual limits of grip

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Love to see a restoration project thread like this. Look forward to further updates. 

[RallyArde]

Thanks again for your feedback!

Yesterday car got allignment done, so it drives now like Omega should   Steering is beautifully light, allthough after E90 325i it feels a bit... weird







I fabricated new bracket for the battery, cause previous owner (or one of the ten of them   ) had lost it and battery was supported with single washer.







Also took a bit longer drive (140km) with this one through nice B-roads. Car also seems pretty driftable now, eventhough I got drive more carefully nowdays, cause Iīve already lost my driving license once for... drifting   And that V6 sound under acceleration is just so raw, compared to inline-6 in my daily BMW



Pulled some trailer as well, there is certainly enough torque for that  


By this far the car is almost finished, but I still have future plans, maybe manual-conversion, maybe better exhaust, etc... Weīll see.

[Doctor Gollum]

What are the alignment settings?

The steering shouldn't feel overly light, but there's always a very slight dead spot straight ahead... This is a normal side effect of a steering box when compared to a rack, but weird is never a positive description.

[RallyArde]

What are the alignment settings?

The steering shouldn't feel overly light, but there's always a very slight dead spot straight ahead... This is a normal side effect of a steering box when compared to a rack, but weird is never a positive description.

There must be some kind of misunderstanding... but what I meant that steering feels completely normal, like in all Omegas that I`ve driven, hence "beautifully light"   Point was that after BMWs heavy steering I had to get used to it again

Allignment is spot on and was done to factory tolerances with proper equipment and by professional mechanic.

[Doctor Gollum]

That's not the answer to my question.

I was after specific numbers, because the "official" settings are as vague as a politician being asked a question.

Light, beautiful or otherwise, suggests an issue. That's not to say that the Omega has particularly heavy steering... One finger with some weight rather than both hands... But from experience, when an Omega has light steering, it's usually followed about 1,000 miles later with dangerously worn tyres.

Perhaps the definition of light is more subjective than it should be, but nevertheless, the actual numbers from your alignment will confirm how 'correct' the alignment is 

[RallyArde]

That's not the answer to my question.

I was after specific numbers, because the "official" settings are as vague as a politician being asked a question.

Light, beautiful or otherwise, suggests an issue. That's not to say that the Omega has particularly heavy steering... One finger with some weight rather than both hands... But from experience, when an Omega has light steering, it's usually followed about 1,000 miles later with dangerously worn tyres.

Perhaps the definition of light is more subjective than it should be, but nevertheless, the actual numbers from your alignment will confirm how 'correct' the alignment is 

Could you then share for all of us, what are the correct figures for Omega (with stock suspension) in camber, caster and toe-in values? Would be easier to make a comparison after that to see how much off my allignment is with factory spec settings. I was given a document from the allignment as well, so I can then compare.

[Doctor Gollum]

They're readily available here with some digging, but I will try and find them to post a link

Basically a firm in the UK took the time to establish the ultimate specific setting for the Omega about 15 years ago and they've not been improved on since. The difference between an Omega set "in the green" and one set spot on is like chalk and cheese.

Bare bones is 1°10"  negative camber, 0°03" toe in at the front,

Thrust angle of 0°00 at the rear. The rear toe and camber are whatever they end up at to get the thrust angle at 0°00.

These are the same regardless of Standard, HD or LSC suspension.

[Doctor Gollum]

This thread gives some insight into the murky depths, but there are several thousand posts on the subject over the years.

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=38995.0

Front settings:
Camber -1°10"
Caster ~ 4.5° to 5.5° ideally similar side to side and can be improved by moving the subframe.
Toe 0°03" to 0°05" toe in. Total toe 0°06" to 0°10" and even side to side.

Rear:
Thrust angle 0°00
Camber and toe should be similar side to side, but they are a single adjustment and the only number that matters is that the thrust angle is Zero. Nothing more or less, not even a gnats cock either way.