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Author Topic: Replacing/upgrading MID  (Read 3563 times)

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al brown

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Re: Replacing/upgrading MID
« Reply #15 on: 15 November 2015, 22:26:54 »

I swapped my 2 plug mid for a later single one using Haynes and a guide by markdtm. I disassembled the pins from the plugs and pushed the pins from the car loom back into the new single plug. It's a little fiddly and the pins don't exactly hold in place until the plug is back together, but it works perfectly and means no cutting of wires was involved.
Just make sure you get the pins the correct way round, I confused the 20 28 as the zero has a line through it.
I must get it programmed though, only been a year and its depressing as when I fill the car up it claims I will get over 1000 miles out of the tank.
Give me a shout if you want any more info.
Al
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Diamond Black Geezer

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Re: Replacing/upgrading MID
« Reply #16 on: 16 November 2015, 08:11:16 »

Appreciated!

Once all the accident damage is sorted, then other 'cosmetic' stuff will be off the backburner!  :y
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Re: Replacing/upgrading MID
« Reply #17 on: 16 November 2015, 18:48:59 »

Tank characteristics cannot be programmed however. If op has a 1994 omega he will get the wrong range signal if he dont change fuel sender and instrument print plate. I may be wrong, but i am fairly confident about this.
I don't believe so, I am pretty certain the tank contents signal is same across the range
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MonzaGSE

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Re: Replacing/upgrading MID
« Reply #18 on: 16 November 2015, 21:23:00 »

Tank characteristics cannot be programmed however. If op has a 1994 omega he will get the wrong range signal if he dont change fuel sender and instrument print plate. I may be wrong, but i am fairly confident about this.
I don't believe so, I am pretty certain the tank contents signal is same across the range
All i know is from when i did this myself. On my 1994 Opel omega 3,0mv6. After rewiring and programing everything worked fine, except on full tank when the fuel gauge showed full, the computer would say 175km range. When the tank reached 2/3 full the computer would just show "F" the rest of the time. Searched some German sites and found that the signal was a different range on 94 and early 95 omegas. Checked fuel gauge parts and found 4 different for the omega. Early and late version saloon, and early and late estate. Got a new version (late 95 and up) gauge from ebay, and found a instrument from a newer car. Mated my old instrument with the white plasticback with the printplate on it from the new instrument as the difference was said to be one of the resistors on the back. Anyway, with new gauge and modified instrument the range was spot on without any programing. Also if you search mid codes on Google you can see that the 95 mid is the only one who can be programmed to tank characteristics 1 or 2 as both was in use that year.
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