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[Marks DTM Calib]

He sounds like the mechanic worlds equivalent of a drug dealer!

[CaptainZok]

Think his latest purchase was a slapon furry trappers hat for the cold weather. He won't tell me what it cost him.

[Webby the Bear]

Afternoon gays. hope youre all well and enjoying the sunshine (assuming you too have the sun  )

Anyway, we're on holiday....AGAIN!!! Seriously this holiday thing sucks. it feels like we've been there 5 mins and we're having a break already 

I spoke to the teacher and very sadly we're not touching anymore electrics for this level.  its a real shame cos I thought I was really starting to get to grips with it especially the wiring diagrams.

SO. its time for me to do some self teaching and try and muddle my way through.

i posted a thread about electric diagnosis and i felt i didn't really get my point across (nowt to do with you... me not explaining myself properly.) so i'm going to try here and re-explain what i meant with a mock problem of parking sensors not working (ive sorted this on my car... just needed cleaning but for the sake of completeness...)

ok so you wake up one day and your parking sensors aint working. the process from an ELECTRICAL FAULT FINDING point of view (my queries in red as usual) ....

remove and check sensor is this a continuity check? i.e. no continuity = bad sensor
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if faulty, replace.
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if not faulty then locate and check fuse
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if fuse bad, replace fuse
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if fuse good, then do voltage test from connector of parking sensor to a good earth (ground) whilst working the parking sensor (i.e. pop in reverse or to a point where the sensor should work)
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if no voltage present then i think(?) you'd have to trace the wiring back and look for a short or open circuit - correct?
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if voltage present then check voltage at fuse with it plugged in
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if no voltage present at fuse then the open/shorted circuit is between this and the switch (assuming the switch is after the fuse) - look for that by following the wiring
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if fuse voltage present then check voltage at switch
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if no voltage there then switch is bad and replace
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all faults fixed (or should be)

this is what i tried to do in the first place (i.e. give a very simple/basic step by step guide that would work in general for most electric fault finding)


if you agree with what ive put...then the next thing i need to know..... how on earth do you trace wiring wen looking for shorts/opens? wiring seems to just disappear in to the unknown.

discuss 

[Marks DTM Calib]

I woudl say no.

For me, I would be doing the following.

Check reverse light illuminates.

Check connections on reverse parking controller.

Check for volts at the parking sensor controller when reverse is engaged.

From that point on your in the hands of the suppliers ecu fault finding (as continuity test on a parking sensor wont tell you a great deal)

[Webby the Bear]

I woudl say no.

For me, I would be doing the following.

Check reverse light illuminates.

Check connections on reverse parking controller.

Check for volts at the parking sensor controller when reverse is engaged.

From that point on your in the hands of the suppliers ecu fault finding (as continuity test on a parking sensor wont tell you a great deal)

Fair enough, Mark 

Will my fault finding guide help in any other situation as I think the P.Sensor's prob a bad example 

[Webby the Bear]

Well still on fekking holiday 

HOWEVER, I know I'm sad but I'm really looking forward to getting my multi meter which should be here tomorrow. Sooooo many things even though it's only a very basic one. Like Mark's Hornby said ''Fisher Price - My first DVOM'' 

First thing to do is to check all these HT leads I got for the correct resistance on my Omega as I seem to have caused a misfire or very much sounds like a mis    however I'm sort of glad cos it gets me to use all the knowledge I've gained so far. hopefully ill get it sorted though

this being the one I bought. cheers for the tip guys 

[Webby the Bear]

Whilst on holiday i'm filling the time talking about, well, 'dangle berries' really 

got these in the post. forgot i'd ordered them as it took ages to get here from the states. theyre anti fog which will be good as I sweat like a beatch and they cloud up normally 

only cost $8 US. $6 extra for postage - will post the link if anyones interested. just means I wont have to wear the ones at school that are covered in, well, shite! 

[Webby the Bear]

$7 even 

[ozzycat]

$7 even 

do they do ones that go over glasses webby

[Webby the Bear]

$7 even 

do they do ones that go over glasses webby

an excellent question as I too wear glasses. mainly for driving though.

these do go over my glasses....... just 

[Andy B]

I've never yet paid for my own PPE .... mine aren't branded though 

[CaptainZok]

I've never yet paid for my own PPE .... mine aren't branded though 

And so you shouldn't, employers duty to supply.
Not your fault if you forget to take em off till you get home is it.

[Andy B]

....
Not your fault if you forget to take em off till you get home is it.

You've been in the same dilemma ....... 

[Webby the Bear]

yeah the school do supply them. but theyre in a big box and not cleaned and have been worn by grotty teenagers with god knows what kind of diseases (sexual or other). and TBH it was the fact theyre just normal ones and I being a sweaty, fat, furry nacker need the anti fog option so I can see what im doing 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Although be aware those are not suited to grinding etc