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[Manual Elite V6]

While driving along today my ABS and TC lights came on and I lost me speedo, I know this is common for ABS ECU failure, however the ABS ECU was replaced with a known good one not a great deal of time ago, this was also happening intermittently.

When I got home I read the codes and none were stored, while looking at the measuring blocks I noticed that my alternator is faulty, with loads on the charge was barely reaching 13V and sometimes was as low as 12V sometime a little under, and it was not more than 13.5V and I believe that the optimum charge rate is between 13.8 and 14.4V, changing the revs made little or no difference to the charge voltage. I then noticed that as soon as the voltage reached 13V the lights would go out every time, when the lights were back on the charge rate would be below 13V again.

What I would like to know is if anyone here has had any experience where a faulty alternator has thrown up ABS and TC problems as in work I had an S-Type Jag which was throwing up ABS and Gearbox problems which were caused by a faulty alternator.

Thanks.

[Kevin Wood]

Not seen these symptoms myself but most systems monitor the supply voltage and shut down, generating a fault code, if it is too low. This is partly to ensure correct operation of the systems concerned, which can't be guaranteed with a low supply, and partly to reduce running loads if the alternator has died to prolong battery life.

Typically, Omegas manage 14V or more charging under most conditions. Do check the security of the crimped connections to the battery terminals (are they getting hot?) before condemning the alternator, though.

Have a look here for some more diagnostic tips. http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90619.0

[Manual Elite V6]

Thanks for your reply, I will check this in the morning.

[danzigfan]

Very similar to issues mine omega has....
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=104020.0
 
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=103866.msg1301037#msg1301037

[Manual Elite V6]

I checked the crimped terminals today, the negative terminal seems fine however I am able to wiggle the positive cable around in the terminal so I will try and rectify this first, I'm guessing it will be easier to buy new terminals with clamps on the end instead? I'm thinking I will replace both to avoid any further problem with these terminals.

[Peti]

What if ABS and TC lights are ON when driving, but OFF when just idling in the garage.

I'm getting a bit nervous....

Some say :
"No need to worry, it's flat battery...."

Others say :
"Start worrying my friend, your ABS ECU has gone...."

It's just the first few testing kilometres after renewal.
Before doing the job ABS worked O.K.

 

[Kevin Wood]

What if ABS and TC lights are ON when driving, but OFF when just idling in the garage.

This suggests the ABS/TC sees something it doesn't like when it starts to see pulses from the wheel sensors. Next step would be to check the ABS/TC ECU for fault codes, IMHO.

[Peti]

Anyway : ABS ECU was removed ( wiring off ) then back after renewal.

Does this mean anything ?