JohnM has kindly done a guide for prefacelift doorcard removal, as it is different to facelift one written by Tunnie...
To be used in conjunction with the two photographs of the door (inside) and the parts.
Model - mini-facelift Elite, so has Bose speakers including tweeter, electric remote mirror control and a pyrotechnic trigger - models vary.
Removal of the door card is required to attend to any of the following items:
Door lock, catch, (external) handle, motor, micro-switches; Window runners, motor; Speaker (main); SRS door sensor (not recommended to play with); Change of door card (trim colour etc).
Only the first part [Handle removal] is required for work on the mirror remote switches (three screws).
To help removal and refitting I have indicated the various screws with coloured arrows. There are five grey (on mine) self-tap screws (green on my picture), three flat headed machine screws (yellow), two larger silver round head screws (red) and a shorter black self tap (white).
Two of the yellow screws are hidden behind a plastic plug and a single screw cover, both reds are behind plastic trim parts, the white behind the door lock button.
The door has a plastic seal behind the door card and trim, removing the parts without ripping this is best.
The door contains a sensor that forms part of the SRS system. Be safe and ensure the ignition is off when working here.
REMOVAL
[Initial Preparation]
There is no easy way to prise these plastic parts away, just use minimal force and the largest and flattest tool that will fit to spread the load so as not to spoil the trim.
Remove the plastic plug (top left yellow) and the plastic screw cap (middle yellow) to reveal screw heads.
Remove the plastic behind the opening lever (top red) and the softer plastic door handle piece (lower red) for access.
Remove the door lock button by easing out the red marker tab whilst in situ, it will only pop out a millimetre or so but this is enough to release its grip on the bar, then lift the whole button (and tab) vertical and clear. [I then removed the locking tab as I was chasing locking problems and when removed it allows the button to slide its full travel.]
[Handle removal]
Release three screws - the top yellow and both reds. Ease the tweeter off by gentle pressure away from the door mirror. The tweeter is a complete mini unit and is secured by two plastic pegs which will pop off when persuaded. Don't pull with too much force though, it isn't needed and the wires have enough but only so much slack.
Now the handle trim can be removed, the opening lever stays behind so easy it away. Now you’ll see the connector for the remote mirrors, with a spare hand disconnect the plug – the car loom side plug should stay put on its fixing. The handle trim will now be free. The tweeter can be put back on its pegs it you want, just push it home.
[Door lock button removal]
With the button removed only the threaded rod should be showing. Remove the screw (white) now visible (don’t drop it – it is quite short) and the button housing will lift away, just let the rod rest against the card.
[Main door card removal]
In no particular order remove the remaining two yellow and five green screws. Lift the card away from the door at the bottom and push upwards to release from the clips at the top – there are three of these near to the glass rubber on the top.
The card should now be free.
However, the kerb light comes with the card and needs disconnecting. It is connected by two spade terminals to the light accessed through the cutout from the back of the card. The wires exit the door metal about a third of the way up the door above the light, they are not long enough to place the card on the floor so lift it up to release the connectors. The connectors just pull off (honest).
With that disconnected you should be free to place the card somewhere safe.
Now you have an ugly door. Do whatever you need and feel free to use the rest of this guide.
RESTORE
[Offer up the door card]
Refit the kerb light connectors to light unit - the light should be on now.
Now offer up the main door card over the top clips whilst getting the door lock button bar up vertically through its slot and using the right hand screw hold near the door lock as a guide position the card as you depress down onto the clips. Use this screw to hold everything in place temporarily.
Place the locking button guide over the bar to sit on top of the card.
[Fit the plastic handle part]
Plug up the mirror control connector.
With the tweeker unclipped, clip the handle assembly over the top and ensure it has gripped the door card at the top;
Fit three screws, top left yellow and two reds.
Clip the tweeker back in.
[Secure the door card]
Replace the remaining screws.
I put back the larger (yellow) screws first (but loosely) before securing the door lock button guide (with the white screw). The side edge screws were easy on mine but I found the bottom edge screws trickier in the carpet - ensure they have caught their thread and are not just screwed into the carpet trim.
When all the screws are tight, ensure the door lock button slides freely up and down in its slot - if it doesn't loosen its screw and reposition before securing.
[Restore the remaining bits]
Put the red locking and marker tab half in the button (if removed), and then ensuring the mechanism is unlocked, place the button in its up position and press the tab inwards to lock it onto the thread. Ensure the tab is flush or it may catch when the door locks.
Clip in the plastic trim behind the opening lever.
Clip in the remaining half of the door handle.
Replace the screw cap (middle yellow) and the plug (top yellow).
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Topic: Prefacelift door card removal (Read 10109 times)