Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[omega18]

Hi folks,

I appear to have a engine oil leak coming from the autobox bellhousing area, recently I have had the autobox replaced and at the same time the crankshaft bearing? seal was replaced. Now thing is that it was not leaking anyway near as bad before.  

So does this mean that the new seal is not good or that something else may have been disturbed during the work?  If so what is involved in fixing it?  :-/

The garage that I have used says that the bearing seal is ok but there is a sort of cap around the crank that needs sealing? I really need to get this fixed pronto!!

Any help appreciated Karl  

[Kevin Wood]

If it's definitely engine oil and not transmission fluid and it's coming out of the bellhousing then the crank seal is the likely candidate. It begs the question whether they have done the job properly. Unless they have had the gearbox out again they can't possibly have checked it.

Sometimes the seal sits in a carrier that needs to be sealed against the block using a gasket or sealant. I would expect them to have sealed this properly at the same time as changing the main seal.

Kevin

[Kevin Wood]

Just to add, if you're having problems with oil seals, check the breathers are clear as pressure buildup in the crank case can blow the seals (normally the cam cover gaskets but you never know).

Kevin

[omega18]

yup it's definatley engine oil, they only checked it when they did the job not since, went down and spoke to the guy that did it and he reckons that it's not the actual seal but some other block/carrier that is on the crank that requires sealing.

So it could be what you have said although the guy said that the sump has to come of and tghe engine needs jacking up to do it? Does this sound right to you?

Chhers Karl.

[Marks DTM Calib]

It sounds like they are referring to the rear mian bearing cap to block seal which is indeed a sump off job although its not one I have seen fail before.

I do wonder if they did the seal correctly, when re-fitting such a part you need to be careful to

1) Make sure you dont damage it when its re-fitted

2) Position the seal so its running on a new bit of crank in case a groove has been worn in the crank where the lip of the seal runs.

However, if its leaking worse following the seal change then that sudgests one thing....it aint sealing right!

I cant beleave that something thats not been touched can suddenly leak more oil......

[omega18]

It sounds like they are referring to the rear mian bearing cap to block seal which is indeed a sump off job although its not one I have seen fail before.

I do wonder if they did the seal correctly, when re-fitting such a part you need to be careful to

1) Make sure you dont damage it when its re-fitted

2) Position the seal so its running on a new bit of crank in case a groove has been worn in the crank where the lip of the seal runs.

However, if its leaking worse following the seal change then that sudgests one thing....it aint sealing right!

I cant beleave that something thats not been touched can suddenly leak more oil......

I am think the same as you that they have indeed fitted the seal incorrectly! So I will be paying a visit to the mechanic when he has finished his holiday, how hard would the seal be to do for a DIY job and no ramps??

[Marks DTM Calib]

I assume its a manual so not to bad, it needs ramps or big axle stands to get it nice and high...

[geoff]

I assume its a manual so not to bad, it needs ramps or big axle stands to get it nice and high...

sorry to interupt but it said it's a auto at the begining of thread sorry

[omega18]

yeah it's an auto, so how much more work would be involved?

I am rapidly losing faith in all the blooming garages around here!

Cheers Karl

[Kevin Wood]

I got the impression that you had taken it back and had them look at it again.

The fact that he's pre-armed with an excuse makes me think he suspected something at the time but threw it back together.

I'd say take it back and complain is the first course of action. As Mark says, something that they didn't touch is not going to have suddenly got worse as a result of their work. Their making a mess of changing the crank seal sounds favourite.

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Auto box to remove so a little more because of the fluid.....not much worse.

[omega18]

I got the impression that you had taken it back and had them look at it again.

The fact that he's pre-armed with an excuse makes me think he suspected something at the time but threw it back together.

I'd say take it back and complain is the first course of action. As Mark says, something that they didn't touch is not going to have suddenly got worse as a result of their work. Their making a mess of changing the crank seal sounds favourite.

Kevin

I intend to go back and have them sort it. Although I am fast becoming annoyed with this as I only sent it in to have the sealing ring in the Autobox to torque converter replaced and upon his advice the crankshaft seal!!
While he has cured the autobox leak he has now created a engine oil leak. So if he gives any more excuses about other parts leaking that he hasn't worked on then I think I will do the job myself!!

What is involved in removing the box and the flywheel?

Cheers Karl

[JamesV6CDX]

I got the impression that you had taken it back and had them look at it again.

The fact that he's pre-armed with an excuse makes me think he suspected something at the time but threw it back together.

I'd say take it back and complain is the first course of action. As Mark says, something that they didn't touch is not going to have suddenly got worse as a result of their work. Their making a mess of changing the crank seal sounds favourite.

Kevin

I intend to go back and have them sort it. Although I am fast becoming annoyed with this as I only sent it in to have the sealing ring in the Autobox to torque converter replaced and upon his advice the crankshaft seal!!
While he has cured the autobox leak he has now created a engine oil leak. So if he gives any more excuses about other parts leaking that he hasn't worked on then I think I will do the job myself!!

What is involved in removing the box and the flywheel?

Cheers Karl

1) Front of the car equally raised and stable on axle stands (or ramps) with rear wheels chocked for additional safety.

2) Assuming it's a V6, 2 15mm nuts on either downpipe to remove them from the manifolds. Long extention bar needed.

3) Exhaust seperated from gearbox mounting brackets and lowered and pushed back clear of gearbox area.

4) Selector Switch linkage removed (1 x 16mm nut)

5) 4 electrical connectors to unplug on passenger side of box, and remove the 2 ATF to rad pipes (loop them over to stop leaks).

6) 15mm Torgue converter to flex plate bolts removed (6 of) through access hatch in the engine block at the bottom.

7) 3 x 19mm nuts to undo, to remove propshaft.

13mm and 19mm bellhousing bolts to remove (starter motor stays put).

9) Gearbox supported, rear mounting undone, gearbox carefully prised from bellhousing and lowered.

Refitting is the reverse of removal, but be sure to line up the TC and the flex plate up as closely as you can, to aid fitment of the first bolt. Once you've got the first bolt in, it's plain sailing...

This job is much easier with 2 people, be aware the gearboxes are heavy.

[omega18]

Thanks for the guide James!   I will speak to the garage, if I end up getting nowhere with them then I think I will be takling this job sometime soon! (With the help of my dad though).

Cheers karl