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[SIR Philbutt]

This was carried out on a 03 auto CDX Facelift with LPG fitted

The gasket failed between coolant port and cylinder.
This was due to HG corrosion caused by incorrect antifreeze mixture or not regularly changed (lesson learned  ).
See here for an example on a V6 http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=105844.0

I am a competent, but infrequent, mechanic and this took me 4 days in total, including 1 day having the head skimmed and tested.

Possible Symptoms
Noticeable reduction in power.
Misfire from engine and Emissions control light on dash.
Slight "mayo" presence on oil filler cap and dipstick
Excessive steam from exhaust (when pulling away).
Coolant Level error on display.
Engine temperature rising.
Coolant reserve low or empty.

Tools Required
This is covered in the V6 head gasket guide http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90560.0

Parts required
Head gasket set (£80). Pattern will do from a good parts supplier although some VX supplied parts are recommended
Exhaust manifold studs (10), cam cover gasket, cam sprocket bolts and exhaust gasket from VX dealer (£56)
The pattern exhaust gasket I got in the head set was better than the VX one
Oil and Oil filter
Antifreeze (red)

Make sure you order parts in advance of your refit as not all are carried in stock and can take up to 2 days or longer

Other activities
This a good opportunity to renew the cambelt-tensioner-pulleys and water pump, Auxiliary belt, Noisy cam follower's and Thermostat

Also you could carry out preventive maintenance such as
EGR cleaning, http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90553.0
IACV, http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90586.0
Throttle Body, http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90528.0

Useful Pictures
In Maintenance Guide http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90645.0
In Cam Cover Gasket guide, http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90597.0,

There is also this thread in the "old" OOF which has a lot of very good pictures and other details.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1290720226

[SIR Philbutt]

Removal
I do not intend to go into detail of sizes and locations of bolts, etc, but indicate the steps I would take if I ever have to do this again.
My observations and links to other, relevant, guides will be included where necessary.
Where possible I returned nuts, bolts, washers, etc, to where they came from so as to make them easy to find when rebuilding. All others where placed in a magnetic tray. Larger parts where placed in a big box.
 
Place vehicle in neutral and apply handbrake. Disconnect battery negative terminal. Drain coolant

Remove exhaust manifold heat shield
Some bolts may sheer

Remove lifting bracket's from above exhaust and inlet manifold's
Allows good access to bolts and nuts

Release exhaust manifold from cylinder head and allow to drop down
Some studs may sheer

Disconnect small pipe to thermostat housing and release housing
Bottom bolt will remove, top bolt will not due to main pipe and will require a ring spanner to loosen

Disconnect LPG system by removing pipes to inlet manifold from actuators and moving out of way

Disconnect MAF, breather pipe and remove air intake

Remove clip and release coolant reserve tank.

Remove alternator top mounting bracket (4 bolts)

Release and pull away intake manifold from head
I did not have to deal with the cable tray on the manifold as it was removed for the LPG so I am unsure as to if this has to be removed
There is a 13mm bolt at the bottom, rear, of the manifold securing it to a bracket and required a ratchet spanner to remove (very awkward, had to move coolant tank out of way to access)
I found that the manifold nuts can be accessed without removing the injector rail by using an extension and universal joint. But had to be careful not to drop the nuts. Tissue in the socket did help to retrieve the nuts.
The rear fixing I found to be a 13mm bolt

Release coolant inlet housing next to inlet manifold (front of cylinder head)
Pipes do not need to be disconnected and are difficult to do without completely removing inlet manifold

Set engine to "top dead centre"  TDC
Use a ring spanner on crank pulley bolt turn the engine clockwise (viewed from front) until the indentation in the crank pulley is level with the spindle marker

Release auxiliary belt and push out of way
Use a ring spanner on tensioner bolt, push down (turn anticlockwise) and pull belt off alternator pulley

Remove coil pack and spark plugs and disconnect cam sensor

Remove cambelt cover, cam cover and breather pipes
Included in Cam Cover Gasket guide http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90597.0
Place a rag in engine block where the passenger side breather pipe is mounted to prevent anything falling in.

Release cambelt and put out of way
Note or take picture of how cambelt is placed over pulley's and tensioner
Using a 13mm open ended spanner release the cambelt tensioner bolt
Use an allen key in the tensioner adjustment arm to release the belt tension (anticlockwise)
Remove the drivers side pulley bolt (13mm) and then pull the pulley(with belt) off it's mounting (this will be useful later)
Release cambelt from cam sprockets and place out of way if not replacing

If you are replacing the cambelt, pulley's, tensioner and water pump, the crank pulley needs to be removed by taking out the 4 bolts holding it on.
Be careful not to move the crank away from TDC and mark the end of the crank and pulley to return it in the correct position.

Ensure you know the TDC position of each cam for refit (take a picture - I didn't and had to work it out)

Replace cam seals (one at a time).
Remove each sprocket and old seal and loosly fit NEW seal. Refit sprocket with NEW bolts (these will be torqued later)
This is best done now and with cam in-situ as it can be easily held in position with a spanner

Remove both cam's and cam followers
Required to gain access to cylinder head bolts.
IMPORTANT - Ensure that the cam bridge securing bolts are kept with each bridge.
IMPORTANT - Place to one side in the position and orientation they came from.
Remove cam followers using a suction cup. IMPORTANT - Ensure they can be returned to the position they came from.
Ensure you know which cam is the exhaust cam for refit (marked on sprocket)

Remove coolant pipe and electrical connections to EGR.
I Initially tried to remove the EGR and housing before the head, this proved difficult due to access to the bolt's. Removing the coolant pipe allows the EGR to be removed with the head and proved to be easier
Some cables are tied and clipped to a bracket on the EGR and need to be disconnected.

Remove two top screws holding cambelt back plate to head.

Remove cam sensor and it's locator.

Remove head bolts
No particular order required although a longer socket bar may be required to to release them.

Remove cylinder head
The inlet manifold will need to be held away to allow removal

[SIR Philbutt]

Place rags in cylinder 2 & 3 to prevent anything falling inside

Blow out cylinder head bolt thread holes to remove any oil that may have flowed in. Place small rags in to prevent anything for falling inside.
This is important as this will impede the head bolts when rebuilding
   
Remove EGR and Exhaust manifold studs from cylinder head

Remove cylinder head gasket

Clear engine block surface of any remaining gasket (scraper) and polish using wire wool or very fine "wet & dry" paper.

Clean cams, followers and cam bridge's of any "mayo" with a clean rag.

Blow air through the cam bridge oil feed holes to remove any blockages/mayo.
Be careful to maintain bolt to bridge positions and orientation for refitting

Have cylinder head skimmed (compulsory) and tested (£50)
This should include:
Snapped exhaust manifold studs removed and re-threaded
Valve seating vacuum tested (any failure will require the valve seats to be repaired/replaced)
Head cleaned and all ports and threads cleared of debris
I also had my cam cover cleaned at the same time to remove the "mayo"

Whilst this is being done (at least 1 day) this is the opportunity to do any other maintenance, repairs, etc

Rebuild
This is the opposite of the removal but I have noted some hints, tips and important steps
Torque indicates refer to Torque setting guide http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90527.0
Wherever possible finger fit nuts and bolts to prevent cross threading.

Refit EGR housing and NEW gasket to rear of cylinder head

Install NEW exhaust manifold studs (10) to cylinder head - torque

Apply exhaust and inlet manifold gaskets to cylinder head

Apply NEW rubber gaskets to thermostat and coolant inlet housings
Use a little grease to hold these in place

Correctly locate head gasket on engine block

Fit cylinder head on block, holding back inlet manifold and ensuring located correctly

Install NEW cylinder head bolts - sequence and torque

Place rags into spark plug positions to prevent any ingress

Re-fit or re-connect:
EGR coolant hose and electrical connections.
Thermostat housing and re-apply small pipe.
Exhaust Manifold - torque, and heat shield.
Coolant inlet housing (next to inlet manifold).
Inlet manifold - torque.
Awkward - Use universal joint and extension to get past injector rail
Use tissue in socket to hold nut secure
Make sure all injector connections are in place (one of mine came off).
Inlet manifold mounting bracket bolt (awkward one on the bottom). 
Two screw's that hold on cam belt back plate to head.
Cam Sensor and locator
Alternator mounting bracket

Turn the crank a known direction and distance to take cylinder's 1 & 4 away from the TDC position.
This is to prevent any of the valves pushing down against the cylinders when tightening down the cams.

Refit Cam followers and cams
Apply oil to valve wells, cam seats & surfaces and cam followers
Make sure exhaust cam is on exhaust side (marked on sprocket)
Make sure both cams are in the correct TDC position

Refit Cam bridges and bolts - torque
Can be sequenced as per head bolts
Tighten down slowly to allow cam to re-seat equally along it's length
Make sure cam seal is seated in place in front bridge before tightening

Return crank to TDC position

Torque cam sprocket bolts holding cam with a spanner

Remove rags and loosly fit spark plugs

Refit Cam cover with NEW gasket, o-rings and (cleaned) breather pipes
As per Cam Cover Gasket guide, http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90597.0

NEW Water pump, passenger side pulley and Tensioner should be installed now - Torque. New Cambelt should be placed under crank sprocket
IMPORTANT - Make sure tensioner locator lug is in the slot next to the water pump
IMPORTANT - The water pump has a lug on the housing (sitting at about 11 o.clock) note or mark where this is. When fitting new pump make sure in approximately the same position as this can effect the tension and refitting of the cambelt.
Clean out the pump housing and apply slight grease to the rubber o-ring
If the cambelt has direction arrows install for a clockwise rotation

Refit crank pulley, ensure set at TDC (if removed)
This can be checked by placing a long screw driver in cylinder one spark plug hole and moving crank pulley back and forth to show piston is at top of stroke

[SIR Philbutt]

Refiting cambelt
If you have done this before use the method you are comfortable with or give this one a try

Make sure, then make sure again, both cams are at TDC position and the marks on the sprockets and cam cover are aligned.
Set the tensioner adjustment to the minimum (fully anti clockwise).
Locate the teeth of the cambelt into the crank sprocket.
Making sure the cambelt is as tight as possible (and using all 3 hands) carry out the following. A couple of attempts may be necessary.

Bring the LHS up from the crank over the RHS of the tensioner and under and over the water pump sprocket.
Bring the RHS up from the crank and around the LHS of the passenger side pulley.
Pull belt over exhaust cam sprocket locating the teeth into the sprocket and then over the inlet cam and then hold in position.
If the belt is not tight between the two cam's a very slight adjustment of each cam (exh clockwise and inl anti) will correct this (but you will have to start again)
Now fit the drivers side pulley, applying its RHS to the belt (lip to outside) and with a little force push the pulley (with belt) onto it's mounting

Check the belt is reasonably tight between all pulley's and sprockets
Check the TDC alignment on the crank pulley and both cams are all exactly aligned.
Slightly out is slightly out, not aligned. Remove belt and repeat if not.

Fit drivers side pulley bolt - torque

With a spanner on the crank pulley bolt complete 2 full turns of the engine (clockwise) returning to TDC.
Check alignment and tensions again.
Slightly out is slightly out, not aligned. Remove belt and repeat if not.

Adjust cambelt tensioner (clockwise) using an allen key in the adjuster arm until set to new or used as required. Tighten tensioner bolt.

Turn the engine one more time on the crank pulley, return to TDC and check alignment. You know what you have to do if not aligned
Check tensioner is still set as you set it. If not re-adjust, turn engine and check again until OK

Step back and admire your achievement so far, get swmbo to "brew up" or pass you a can, and have a rest.

Refit or reconnect:
Cambelt cover and cable tray
Auxiliary belt
Tighten spark plugs
Cam Sensor
Coil pack and cover (do not reconnect yet)
LPG (if installed)
Air intake with breather pipe and MAF
Coolant reservoir
Lifter brackets over manifolds

Relocate all pipes and cables into their trays/original positions and cable tie as required. Refit cable tray lids

Remove oil filter, drain oil and replace
This is required to remove "mayo" oil from the system.
It is possible that some of the "mayo" is still within the engine and sump. Replace the oil and filter again after 100 miles of running.
Do another oil and filter change after another 1000 miles, but keep checking filler cap and dip stick regularly.

Refill coolant system with 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water (about 8 ltr total)
Squeezing the main pipe to radiator (rhs from thermostat) does help to fill system and remove any air

Finishing and Testing

Your box and magnetic tray should now be empty

Double check yourself and what you have done.
Did I re-connect everything?
Did I Refit everything?
Did I tighten everything?

Reconnect battery negative terminal.

Turn engine over a few times on starter motor, leaving coil pack disconnected
This will allow you to again check the engine is turning over ok and there are no clunk's, bang's etc.
Allows the new oil to circulate and build up a little pressure

Reconnect coil pack and start engine
DO NOT rev the engine initially.
If the emissions light was on it will stay on and should go out after a few days
If the spanner light comes on then you may have left something disconnected or you will have to read & clear the codes.
Simtec 71 (Z22XE 2.2 16V Petrol) codes http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90576.0

Allow engine to "tick over" and look for leaks and listen for unusual noises. If not sure switch off and re-check everything

Allow engine to heat up and check the heater is blowing warm air, topping up the coolant reserve if required

You should now be ok to give it a short run.
Watch for overheating and any dash lights or error's on the display
Switch to LPG and check if ok (if installed)

Upon return check oil level and coolant level and any leaks/mayo

Go onto OOF, brag about your success (and how good this guide is  )
Add a reply to this guide about anything that is incorrect or missed for the next reader.